SAN JOSE – Among the many blessings Costa Rica is known for, excellence in gastronomy is not one of them. When it comes to the culinary arts, the vast majority of Tico offerings are limited to dishes that highlight freshness and simplicity, but not much else. For all the quality ingredients that our land produces, the rigors of French cuisine or the innovations of Peruvian chefs are mostly absent from our kitchens. All this is about to change, however, thanks to the first Feria del Gustico, an event that took place over the weekend in the former Aduana building in San Jose. With the right amount of interest and support, Tico gastronomy could soon develop and gain notoriety.

The Feria del Gustico was an event coordinated by the Ministry of Agriculture and the Costa Rican Chamber of Exporters (CADEXCO) in English. The motivation behind this event wasn’t so much culinary in the beginning; it was rather an effort to encourage farmers and foodstuffs producers to become aware of the great potential our land can offer to cooks and food lovers worldwide. Costa Rica is a country known for the many gifts she bestows to farmers and consumers alike. Agricultural entrepreneurs who practice principles of organic farming as much as they can are greatly rewarded, and there is a general sentiment towards refraining from controversial mass farming techniques that could negatively impact our land. As a result, Ticos have a great time each weekend at the local farmer markets, and demand for high-quality agricultural products is growing.

The ingredients are definitely in place, but some elements are missing. Greater pride and passion from everyday cooks, more entrepreneurial spirit from the food producers, a greater sense of engagement from the public, etc. These important elements seem to be missing from the gastronomical scene in Costa Rica; something that the Feria del Gustico tried to address this weekend. The Ministry of Agriculture extended an open invitation to growers and producers to become exhibitors, and they demanded high quality from all applicants. Not all those who applied made the cut, either; out of 130 applicants, 100 were accepted, and ministerial staff took the time to coach those that did not make the cut. Everything that was offered at Feria del Gustico over the weekend was export quality.

A Culinary Renaissance

Some of the highlights of the Feria del Gustico included cheese, chocolates, coffee, and flowers. One of the goals was to teach exporters and producers the proper ways to set up tastings and exhibitions. There were also important conferences for agricultural entrepreneurs who want to tap into the lucrative global trade markets. For the public, renowned Chef Doris Goldgewicht was on hand to teach attendants how to get the most out of our traditional and extremely simple recipes. She also shared quite a few pictures of the event on her Facebook profile.

A Renaissance in terms of cooking may soon come to kitchens across Costa Rica. Television cooking shows like Viviana en tu Cocina are very popular, and publications like Revista Sabores have amassed great interest from Tico cooks. Revista Sabores follows a great tradition that began with Tia Florita, a master cook who many years appeared on television encouraging cooks at home to get creative and to go beyond the daily rice-and-beans combo. When Tia Florita started over 35 years ago, her audiences were more than likely Tica housewives, but in recent years her culinary empire has grown to books, magazines, television, and webcasts. Tia Florita’s recipe books are legendary among cooks in Costa Rica, particularly for her fondness in sharing traditional recipes enhanced by her gastronomical expertise.

Nouvelle Cuisine

Cooks in Costa Rica tend not to follow the strict and elaborate rules of haute cuisine that French cooks developed centuries ago. They are more likely to practice the principles of nouvelle cuisine, eschewing the emphasis on the heavy use of dairy products in favor of cooking techniques that bring out natural flavors. Out fertile land gives nascence to delicious cereals, fruits, grains, and vegetables; it is up to Tico cooks to make the most out of our quality ingredients.

Simplicity and frugality are at the heart of traditional Tico cuisine, and those characteristics should not be abandoned. Certain easy practices, however, can be safely implemented to compliment the delightful ingredients and breathe new life into old recipes. For example, our national dish -Gallopinto- typically consists of rice, beans, onions, bell peppers, cilantro, a dash of Lizano sauce, and that’s pretty much it. Certain improvements like adding a bit of crushed garlic sauteed in super-hot olive oil, a touch of black pepper, tiny shavings of cooked pork, or a sprinkle of chicken broth can go a long way towards enhancing the flavor of natural ingredients.

Here’s a nouvelle cusinine twist on the old sopa negra (black bean soup) that traditionally consists of liquified black beans, cilantro and hard-boiled eggs.

Sopa de frijoles borrachita (Black Bean and Beer Soup)

Serves 6 portions:

-1 kg of black beans
-3 liters of water
-1 celery stalk, finely chopped
-1 head of garlic, finely chopped
-2 onions, finely chopped
-1 large diced carrot
-2 bay leaves
-150 grams of diced bacon
-1/2 can of tomato paste
-1 can of beer – definitely Imperial
-Salt, pepper and Lizano sauce to each individual taste

Black beans should always be left soaking overnight. When it comes time to cooking the beans, the old water should never be used, always start with fresh water. Once the beans are cooking, the celery, garlic, half of the onion, and the bay leaves should be added to the pan.

The soaked beans will start to soften at medium heat after 45 minutes. In the meantime, the rest of the onion should be sauteed along with the bacon, the tomato paste, the salt and spices, and the beer. This sauce should be added to the beans after about an hour, and the bay leaves should be removed. Before adding any more salt, cooks should consider the fact that the bacon will continue to release sodium.

Some variations on this recipe could include fresh chunks of tomatoes for a more reddish look.  Garnish with herbs, chips and fresh vegetables for a more appetizing effect. Buen Provecho.